Mezze Maniche alla Norma Recipe

I love melanzana, but not eggplant. What I mean is that melanzana transports me to Italia. And even aubergine (French for melanzana) transports to France. Eggplant sounds like something only eaten secretly by platypuses (not platypi, although I thought it followed octopus/octopi). That’s sad, because—I’ll say it—I do love eggplant, notwithstanding its strange name. And to elevate, I hope, the February doldrums, here’s a recipe from Pasta Veloce, originating from Sicily. Put on Maria Callas singing “Casta Diva.” Turn it up!

Mezze Maniche alla Norma

Serves 3 to 4

Here’s a quick version of the classic pasta of Catania, Sicily. Who was Norma? Most probably the recipe honors the heroine of Vincenzo Bellini’s opera of the same name. It’s still popular in the handsome and lively city of Catania, where raucous outdoor vegetable and fish markets are major fun, and the main piazza’s dignified volcano-ash-colored buildings with a whimsical elephant statue make you want to linger over a strong Sicilian coffee. Look for a firm, shiny eggplant, preferably with a dot rather than a line at the bottom. This indicates a male fruit and usually has fewer seeds. A medium macaroni or ziti are also good choices for Norma. For maximum pleasure while making this pasta, play the stupendous Maria Callas singing Norma.

8 ounces mezze maniche
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 medium-size eggplant (about 1 pound), trimmed, half-peeled (see Note), and cut into ⅜-inch cubes
¾ teaspoon coarse salt
2 cloves garlic, chopped
½ to 1 teaspoon crushed hot red pepper
½ teaspoon anchovy paste
¾ cup passata or pureed tomatoes, diluted with ¼ cup water
3 tablespoons dried currants
3 ounces ricotta salata, cut into small dice (about ¾ cup)
2 tablespoons torn fresh basil
12 cherry tomatoes, cut in half if large

In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pasta until al dente, 10 to 12 minutes. Scoop out and reserve ½ cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta.

Meanwhile, in a large wok or heavy skillet, heat ¼ cup of the olive oil over high heat. When almost smoking, add the eggplant and sprinkle with ½ teaspoon of the salt. Spread out so that as much of the vegetable as possible is in contact with the pan. Sauté, stirring occasionally to allow the surfaces to brown, until the eggplant is tender and lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove to a bowl.

Add the remaining tablespoon olive oil to the pan. Add the garlic and sauté over medium-high heat for 1 minute to soften. Add the hot pepper and anchovy paste and cook for another minute, or until the garlic is just beginning to color.

Pour in the passata, currants, and remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring to caramelize the sauce slightly, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the cooked pasta, reserved pasta water, eggplant, ricotta salata, basil, and cherry tomatoes. Toss to mix well.

NOTE: For the eggplant to cook quickly but retain some of the color and texture of the peel, remove alternating strips with a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler, leaving half of the skin intact.

Excerpt From Pasta Veloce, Frances Mayes, Susan Wyler & Steven Rothfield