Cortona’s Favorite Pasta - Pici w/ Elephant Garlic & Herbed Breadcrumbs
We continue to be surprised and delighted in everyday moments of the unexpected and the delicious, such as at Locanda del Molino, when our old friend Edo comes in on a Thursday night with an armload of aglione he had just yanked out of his fields, and as if he were handing out beautiful white roses, surprises unsuspecting diners at the tables. They may very well be eating, at that moment, Pici all’aglione (recipe to follow)!
Aglione in Italy is native to Cortona’s Val di Chiana. It has a mild taste, closer to leeks and is called the “kissing garlic” in Italy. In the USA, you’ll see Elephant Garlic—not really the same as aglione, but it’ll work.
Pici is Cortona’s favorite pasta. Our good friend, Silvia Baracchi (1-star Michelin chef and owner of the Locanda, as well as the Relais & Chateaux Il Falconiere) taught us to form long strands, three or four times the thickness of spaghetti.
PICI ALL’AGLIONE - Silvia's Pici w/ Elephant Garlic & Herbed Breadcrumbs
Pici:
Serves 4 to 6
For the eggless pasta dough
2 cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for kneading
⅔ to ¾ cups water, plus additional if needed
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch of salt
Mound the flour on a board and make a well in the center. Into the well add the water, olive oil, and salt. Slowly mix these into the flour, adding more water, if needed, as the dough comes together. Knead about 10 minutes until the dough is smooth. You are aiming for a soft but not sticky mix, but don’t worry if the dough is stiff; it will relax while it rests. Form the dough into a log, cover loosely with a dishtowel, and set aside for 20 minutes.
When ready, cut the dough crosswise into very thin pieces or just pull off little chunks. With your hands, roll each piece into a snake about the thickness of a chopstick–and up to 2 feet long. Continue until all the dough has been rolled. If some break, that just contributes to the homemade look. Leave the pici uncovered on the kitchen counter while you prepare the sauce.
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Here’s a sauce from Frances’s Pasta Veloce:
Elephant Garlic with Herbed Breadcrumbs
Antonello, electrician as well as a maestro in the kitchen, revealed his secret to enhancing this classic recipe: Reserve 2 tablespoons of the garlic and add it raw at the end, dividing the cloves and smashing them with the flat side of a knife. (Also you can make this recipe with the more pungent regular garlic, using half as much.) And add just 1 tablespoon of the raw garlic at the end. Quick tip: Seasoned breadsticks make handy breadcrumbs. Just slice or roughly chop.
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup coarse fresh breadcrumbs
1 teaspoon fresh oregano leaves, or ½ teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves, or ½ teaspoon dried
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 cup aglione or elephant garlic cloves, minced in a food processor or mini processor
¼ cup dry white wine
¼ teaspoon crushed hot red pepper
½ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the pici until al dente, about 5 minutes, depending on thickness. Scoop out and reserve ½ cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Stir in the breadcrumbs. Toast over medium-high heat, stirring often, until crisp and lightly browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with the oregano, thyme, ½ teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon black pepper. Set aside on a plate.
In the same skillet, heat the other 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Add all but 2 tablespoons of the garlic and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the garlic is golden and softened but not brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Pour in the wine and bring to a boil, then immediately reduce the heat to low. Season with the hot pepper.
Add the cooked pici to the pan, along with the raw garlic. Add ⅓ cup (80 ml) of the pasta water, blending the mixture well. Add more liquid if desired but no more than ½ cup (120 ml) in total. Toss in the toasted breadcrumbs and the cheese, season with additional salt and pepper if needed, and serve at once.
And remember when you’re next in Cortona and the surrounding area to try the real thing: pici all’aglione—the aglione will probably be Edo’s!
